Finally, we began to venture into the highlands. We drove out of the rainy weather of the lower east coast and headed west (ish) towards our next stay in Onich, a village in the Glencoe area. On the way there we took our first winding, captivating path through the Ciarngorms. We took a pitstop at the Glenlivet Estate Distillery (they have very nice bathrooms, highly recommend), and visited the Old Glenlivet Bridge.
We stopped for lunch in Aviemore, which was very resonant to Canadian Banff. A cute, touristy mountain town built around the popular tourist destinations throughout the Cairngorm mountains.

I took us to Loch An Eilein (after some disagreements on google map navigation). Loch an Eilein is the ruins of a 13th century castle located on an island. To find the castle, you take a mystical walk through the old pines in the forest of Rothiemurchus. As we wandered through the forest it was easy to feel like you were transported in time. Garrett hypothesized what it would be like to defend yourself if you were being pursued on foot through the forest paths. The vividness in his descriptions and scenarios were such that I could imagine that he was working off past life memories more than just hypothetical ideas.
Once again, we were blessed with having the forest largely to ourselves and a few other quiet visitors. This was one of the first stops where I felt less like a tourist and more like someone returning to a moment in time I’d perhaps seen before.

The ruins date back to the 1200s, though it’s not clear exactly who first erected a structure on the island. It is believed that in the 1200s the Bishop of Moray built a house and defensive wall. In the 1300s the Wolf of Badenoch, also known as Alexander Stewart – the younger son of King Robert of Scotland and grandson of Robert the Bruce, created a fortified hunting lodge on the site. At one point there would have been a causeway that connected the castle to the shore, though this is now submerged. The defeated Jacobites took over this castle in the late 1600s after the battle of Cromdale. Another note from history, in the 1700s, after the battle of Culloden, the widow of the 5th Laird of Gordon sheltered fugitives. In more recent history, the Grant lairds have protected the island for it’s known Osprey nesting grounds.

From here we continued on our winding path through the mountains to find our airbnb in Onich. Unfortuantely, our airbnb appeared to be not as described and a little human trafficky feeling, so we found an alternative accomodation at a nearby lakeside hotel.
As we settled in for the evening and took in our picture perfect surroundings I was struck by the timelessness of the scenery. It seemed simultaneously impossible to imagine but also completely embodied to remember what it would be like to look over the mountains from different points in known history.

The next morning after a wonderful buffet breakfast at our new hotel we took a drive to find the Fairy Bridge. This mystical foot bridge is tucked into the forest along a near forgotten foot path in the mountains. Thank you to some coordinates found somewhere on the internet, likely Atlas Obscura, we found an entrance point and wandered into the forest to see what might be there. To add to the blood pressure of those who aren’t used to my fuck around and find out travel methods, we also had no cell service.
A short uphill stumble through the forest led us relatively quickly to a bridge that very much appeared to be a portal to a fairy realm.

Yes, of course we crossed it. And, I think we made it back.
If you listen closely, you can hear the voices of history.
KH, 2023
If you walk carefully, you may find yourself lost in moments between time.
There are portals all around us, waiting for us to remember.
Look softly and you may just see beyond what you think you know.
From the fairy bridge we drove towards Lochleven and took a short hike to Grey Mare Falls, and then drove a bit the other direction to see the Glenfinnan Viaduct. Due to our nature of not wanting to pay an insane amount for a few minutes of parking at this popular Harry Potter destination, we didn’t actually end up seeing the Viaduct in protest. Instead we took a walk around the surrounding village, visited an old church overlooking the lake and then found a pub in Fort William for dinner.

Throughout our day, we had been hearing Elk or Red Deer calls over the hills. Even once seeing a Red Deer walking along a ridge from a distance. Over the day and days to follow, I was notable seeing “ghost” dear in the trees out the corners of my eyes. Never there when I looked directly. In folk legend, the red deer are believed to represent the “little people” in Celtic traditions. Perhaps we did venture into a fairy realm over that bridge.
Once back at our hotel for the second and final night in this area, we enjoyed a glass of whisky while editing photos and then played fooseball in the hotel lounge. A long stare at the stars over the lake took us to bed. Our next leg of the journey would take us further west towards our next stop on the Isle of Skye. Stay tuned for the next installment.
























